Project with a purpose

Here is a little video of the final result for those who aren't interested in the build.  As you probably can tell by now, I used my own advice to create templetts.  Unfortunately, sometimes they will be the final case.

Using non solderable bread boards I constructed the circuit first and then decided what needed to be soldered on a bread board and what should be attached directly to the case.

As you can see, you don't get much simpler than this.  On the left a connection for the pots and three resisters. One resister for each color to keep the pots from exceeding LED recommendations.  On the right three connections for the switches.  Three resistors for each of the switches brightness setting.  Note the difference.  The left will have one pot connected to each.  The right will have all three switches connected to each.

The extra connection is where I thought the nuetral connection would be but that ended up in another location.

 These are the switches I used.  They were purchased from Jameco Electronics, part number 2236199.  These are 2 pole 4 position switches.  Basically that means that 2 sets of 4 positions will each have there own nuetral post.  Here is where I found out that not all rotary's are made to be mounted from the top. 

On the analog side these are the potentiometer's I used to control brightness.  This was an assortment pack of a brand called Cylewet.  Why the switches (another purchase from Jameco)?  My inexperience made it difficult for me to find a pot that would give a good range of brighness, not burn the led out, turn off at highest resistance.

This will give you an overview of the entire wireing.  The black and red wires coming in from the top center is the power.